My Warp-Weighted Loom
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|Some basic instructions on how to build a simple warp-weighted loom.|
|The warp tension is maintained by weights hooked onto the end
of each cord. It's a bad scan, you can only barely make out the weights
at the bottom of the left-hand photo.
Instead of a floating comb to keep the cords apart, I bolted a piece of plywood with cut grooves to the end of the loom. When using thicker yarn, I can simply bolt on a different piece with larger gaps.The length of the loom (in its standard state) is approximately 1.8 metres; I can shorten this to about 80cm or extend it to a bit over 3 metres. I seldom change the length though; for long pieces I simply wrap the extra thread for each cord around a metal spindle, then attach the weight to it. As the band gets near the end of the loom, I unwind the necessary thread from each spindle, move the finished part, and tie it down. The only limit to the length of a band is the size of the spindles.
The loom consists basically of three parts: one plank as base, and two
shorter ones for the ends (these two have uprights attached to them).
The wing nuts hold everyting together; they are easy to undo so that the
loom can be lengthened or shortened.
My original idea was to take the loom apart for transport. This was not entirely successful since the weights tend to come off and the warp tangles, so there is a fair bit of additional work involved in moving the loom.
|The start of the warp. Each cord is knotted at the end and placed into a slot. The brackets at either side are used for clamping down the warp after moving it up once the band has reached the end of the loom.|
|The pattern for the band on the loom is here.|